In Rui Xu’s forthcoming fashion exhibition From Xuan to Blindness the designer will present her definitive idea about beauty and authenticity of ‘Chineseness’. Her experience of more than 20 years as a practitioner of traditional Chinese painting and calligraphy tempers a more cautious application of typical Chinese elements of pattern and embroidery on her garments. Instead, Rui Xu desires to take the best of the cultural and historic legacy of China and translate it to become relevant to today’s high fashion wearers.



Rui Xu’s design is always a fusion and dialogue of eastern and western fashion, reflecting how they understand and misunderstand each other. She is loyal to traditional Chinese non-structural shape while borrowing the western collar shape, and is fascinated by exquisite tailoring details. The large scale of her garments is reminiscent of both western brands such as Maison Margiela and the Chinese Emperor’s court robe at V&A museum. Rui Xu has explored the dynamic between the sobriety of traditional Chinese taste and the exuberance and freedom of western fashion culture.



Curated by Dr Claire Pajaczkowska, Senior Research Tutor in Fashion and Textiles at the RCA.

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